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Best Boots for Peak Climb

1. Which are the best boots for peak climbing in Nepal?
A question which struck every climber before heading to Nepal.
While there are many boots out in the market for high altitude, it’s important to find out if the boot you are planning to buy will serve you well and keep your feet warm for your intended trip. Check out our recommended boots for peak climbing in Nepal with expert tips and info on what to look for when purchasing a climbing boot.

In the context of Nepal, peak climbing will generally be up to 6,476m (highest trekking peak) and higher than this altitude will require a proper mountaineering boot. On peak climbing trips in Nepal, you will be wearing your climbing boots for a day or three (In case of Mera Peak) but these days are crucial in your whole trip and besides the temperature will drop considerably lower in higher altitude (As low as minus 25 degrees centigrade) so it’s very important to make sure that the boot is fit for your activity, comfortable and warm.

Gone are the days of climbing peaks in Nepal with crampons and a pair of plastic boots (koflach). With more innovation and technology, climbing boots these days have seen a huge upgrade in terms of light weight, comfort, warmth etc.

We still see the use of Koflach on peak climbing trips in Nepal, while they are not a bad boot for climbing; Koflach boot is heavier as compared to the newer generation boots. While the boot completely differs on your level of activity and the altitude, we have listed some of the boots you should also consider for peak climbing trips in Nepal such as Mera Peak, Island Peak, Lobuche East and etc.

For higher altitudes than hiking peaks, you’ll need a suitable mountaineering boot such as the La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa 8000 or Millet Everest Summit GTX.

Important Note: This is neither a sponsored post nor a post aimed at a particular brand for any purpose. All the shoes listed on this are the ones we see regularly in the mountains of Nepal. The boots mentioned in this are used by both guides and clients. We’ve posted this because of the positive reviews and experiences we’ve heard over the years.

Things to consider about before buying a boot for peak climbing:

1. Conduct thorough research

Read product reviews from independent sources. Always read and heed the manufacturer’s and retirement. Ask your friends or anyone in the circle if they have used the boot you intend to buy. Conduct thorough research about the pros and cons of the boot.

2. Fit and sizing

Above all, make sure the boot you choose is comfortable and fits well. On the Nepal Peak Climbing trips (6000m peaks), you will only wear climbing shoes for 1-2 days but these are important days in your itinerary so try on several pairs before making your choice. Wear your peak socks when trying on climbing shoes. It is recommended to go half a full size up from your regular shoe size to ensure there is some space between your toes and the front of the boot.

3. Buy or rent

If you plan to continue climbing in future, then it may be a good decision to buy a pair of climbing boots but if this is your first and last time, then perhaps renting a boot will save you a fortune. You can rent boots in trekking/climbing shops in Thamel, Kathmandu after your arrival. We highly recommend you to rent a boot from Kathmandu after making sure it fits you well rather than to a hire a boot from teahouses/lodges on the trek as often time they will not have a right size for you and may not be of good quality. While taking the boots from Kathmandu increases your duffel bag weight, it is much more worth than trying your luck to find the appropriate boot for you at last moment.

4. Crampons compatibility

Climbing equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax etc.) is required for peak climbing in Nepal. Crampons help you walk safely on snow and ice during summit climbing trips. There are different types of crampon adaptability (automatic crampon/step in crampon, semi-automatic crampon, strap on crampon). Check the material, front point type, point and binding when buying crampons.

5. Shell material

The shell is the outer layer of the boot. It is also your first line of defense. Synthetic, plastic, and leather are the three most common shell materials found in shoes. While plastic shoes are certainly drier and more stable they are generally heavier and more energy draining. Synthetic shoes are lightweight, stiff and give you the lightweight flexibility of a hybrid with the shell-like protection of plastic.

6. Rigidity

The stiffness of the boot determines the activity the boot will perform.
Hard shoes such as plastic shoes are for technical ice climbing because the entire body’s weight is on the two front points. Semi-rigid shoes allow a greater level of comfort unlike rigid shoes.

Best boots for peak climbing 6000m peaks

1. La Sportiva G2 SM

La Sportiva G2 SM
Purpose-built and technical, the G2 SM is a lightweight double boot designed in collaboration with renowned Italian alpinist Simone Moro for the world’s boldest peaks. Double boot construction maximizes warmth, and dual Boa® closure systems ensure a responsive fit and ease of operation with gloves. La Sportiva G2 SM can also be worn on 7000m expeditions.

2. La Sportiva Spantik

La Sportiva Spantik Boot
The Spantik is a double boot designed for cold, high altitudes environments. This step-in crampon-compatible boot excels on steep terrain without sacrificing walkability. The thermo-moulded inner boot and one-handed closure system provide insulation and convenient lacing.

3. La Sportiva G5

La Sportiva G5 Boot
The G5 is a highly technical big mountain boot designed for visionary lines. This synthetic, weatherproof boot ensures maximum fit and performance through its Boa® lacing system, while the ankle flex zone supports ease of movement in rough terrain. The external Cordura® gaiters and internal water-resistant membrane ensure your feet stay dry in full conditions.

4. Scarpa Phantom Tech

Scarpa’s Men’s Phantom Tech Mountaineering Boots may be built like a brick house, but they’re about 20% lighter than traditional leather cold weather mountaineering boots, making them a solid choice for everything from standard mountaineering to hardcore ice climbing.

5. Scarpa Phantom 6000

Scarpa Phantom Tech
The Phantom 6000 is a double-layered boot designed for climbing 6000m peaks or cold weather alpinism. The Phantom 6000 is designed to be warm, tough and lightweight, perfect for climbing 6000m Himalayan peaks. The outer shell is made from a mix of high tenacity KCN-Tech nylon and the aptly named Super Fabric for superior abrasion-resistant against crampon wear.

6. La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX

La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX
Combining innovative 3D Flex™ ankle construction and super warm Carbon-Tech honeycomb insole, the Nepal Cube GTX delivers the latest in mixed terrain climbing footwear. This lightweight, technical single boot is ideal for cold-weather climbs on variable terrain.

7. La Sportiva Baruntse

La Sportiva Baruntse Boot
A sturdy, durable double boot for high altitude mountaineering. Ideal for use on 6000-7000 meter peaks or in harsh winter conditions where you don’t want to think about your feet.

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(1) Comment

  1. Ram Tamang

    AlpineTrav Treks & Expeditions is an adventure travel company in Kathmandu, Nepal founded by local alpine experts with extensive experience in trekking and mountaineering in the Himalayas.

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