Home > Destination > Expedition in Nepal > Ama Dablam Expedition 6,812m

Ama Dablam Expedition 6,812m - 31 Days

Amadablam-expedition

Technically challenging mountain in the Khumbu region to follow the southwest ridge to the summit fully supported expedition with the best Sherpa support a true Alpinist’s dream

Famously known as Mountaineer’s mountain, Ama Dablam is one of the technical mountains in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas that stands tall at 6812m. The glacier lurking from the southwestern face gives an impression of a jewel dangling from the neck of a mountain which gave it the name of Ama Dablam (meaning Mother’s Jewel), this is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Get the technical climbing experience of conquering this mountain sharply pointed. Ama Dablam summit allows panoramic views of eight-thousanders including Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse.

Our Ama Dablam climbing route follows the standard route through the southwest ridge to the summit. This route is the safest and is free from the risk of avalanches. We need to cross 40-45 degree slopes.

Trip Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive at Kathmandu (1,350m)
Day 02: Kathmandu for official formalities & last minute preparation
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,860m) and trek to Phakding (2,610m)
Day 04: Trek -Phakding to Namche Baza (3,440m)
Day 05: Rest day at Namche for acclimatize and explore
Day 06: Trek -Namche to Tengboche monastery (3,800m)
Day 07: Trek -Tengboche to Pangboche (3,930m)
Day 08: Trek from Pangboche to base camp (4,420m)
Day 09 -23: Ama dablam climbing period and back to base camp
Day 24: Trek from base camp to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
Day 25: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m)
Day 26: Fly back to Kathmandu (1,350m)
Day 27 -days 29: Extra days in case of flight cancellation
Day 30: Departure. (Fly back to home)

A careful strategy

Our ama dablam base camp is well-appointed providing each climber with a comfortable stay. We will spend a few days at Amadablam Base Camp for rest, preparation, training, and a puja ceremony. After we are fully settled at the base camp, a rotation of higher camps will be conducted to aid our acclimatization process. Rotation of higher camps is effective before making the final attempt at the summit. Hence, we will climb to higher camps and descend to lower camps in order to make our bodies well acclimatized to the high altitude.

On the first rotation, we will carry a small load to Camp 1 (5,600m) and then return to our Base Camp. On our next rotation, we will sleep at Camp 1, and early in the morning of the next day, we will climb to Camp 2 (5,900m) and descend back. In a final rotation, those feeling comfortable will sleep at Camp 2 while other climbers will descend to lower camps for rejuvenation before making the final attempt for the summit.
After Base Camp, we will set up 3 camps before making it to the summit. Camp 1 will be at (5,600m), similarly, Camp 2 will be at (5,900m) and the final Camp 3 will be at (6,300m).
Once we are fully acclimatized, we will take a few days rest at the base camp and wait for a perfect weather window to arrive for our final summit push.

Customize Your Expedition:
For more information please e-mail us at ramalpinetrav@gmail.com

Day 1
Arrive at Kathmandu (1,350m)

Day 2
Kathmandu for official formalities & last minute preparation

Day 3
Fly to Lukla (2,860m) and trek to Phakding (2,610m)

Day 4

Day 04: Trek -Phakding to Namche Baza (3,440m)
Day 05: Rest day at Namche for acclimatize and explore
Day 06: Trek -Namche to Tengboche monastery (3,800m)
Day 07: Trek -Tengboche to Pangboche (3,930m)
Day 08: Trek from Pangboche to base camp (4,420m)
Day 09 -23: Ama dablam climbing period and back to base camp
Day 24: Trek from base camp to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
Day 25: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m)
Day 26: Fly back to Kathmandu (1,350m)
Day 27 -days 29: Extra days in case of flight cancellation
Day 30: Departure. (Fly back to home)

Cost Inclusion

  • Nepalese government royalty fees for Ama Dablam
  • 1/1 sherpa guide to climber ratio during the climb
  • All expedition organizational requirements
  • Service of base camp manager/Climbing sirdars
  • Meals at base camp/higher camps during Expedition
  • Personal tents at B. C, High tents, kitchen tents, dining tents, shower tents, toilet tents, store tents, cooking utensils, etc...
  • Applicable national park fees and local taxes
  • Accommodation at a 3-star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Domestic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and Kathmandu fare
  • Meals (B, L, D) and accommodation during the trek up to B. C and back to Lukla after the expedition
  • Porterage of Climbing Equipment up to Base Camp then Back to Lukla
  • International and Internal airport pick-up and drop services
  • Staffs wages, allowances with their insurance
  • Liaison officer daily wages and fees
  • Satellite phone for emergency use only
  • Oxygen cylinder with mask regulator for emergency use only
  • Radio set for communication between camps
  • Necessary climbing rope for above base camp
  • Helicopter rescue service

Cost Exclusion

  • International airfare/Nepal entry visa
  • Custom for bringing any expedition goods
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • Travel Insurance (Mandatory)
  • Summit bonus for your sherpa (USD 500)
  • Gratuities for staff/Personal expenses
  • Helicopter rescue cost
Difficult

Ama Dablam is a technical mountain in the Khumbu region of Nepal consisting of mixed terrains (Rock/Ice/Snow) with exposed ridge climbing. It requires a high level of fitness and previous experience of at least moderate technical climb. Since most of the section on Ama Dablam is fixed rope climb, you need to be very comfortable with jumping and abseiling on fixed ropes. The route between Camp 1 and Camp 3 consists of a technical climb with some near-vertical ice and rock. Climbers should expect multiple days of climbing at high altitudes in extreme conditions.
The route consists of a pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Get the technical climbing experience of conquering this mountain sharply pointed.

Prerequisites

Climbers are required to have a good climbing resume and moderate skills on a technical climb. You need to have solid rock-climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. Since you will be spending most of the time in extreme conditions a previous experience of climbing a 6000m peak is required. Climbers are required to be in excellent fitness and must have the ability to perform at a high level for a longer duration at high altitudes.
A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential prerequisites for joining this category expedition. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow, rock, and ice carrying your pack on. You should be familiar with Rope skills, ice ax arrest, crampon skills, the use of ascenders (Jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness.
Training well ahead in advance, at least 6 months prior to the expedition start date is recommended. Doing Crossfit, uphill walking, carrying a heavy backpack on exposed terrain, and other physical activities will be greatly beneficial to improve your performance. Consult with your doctor about your physical level and have a balanced program of training, diet, and rest. Lastly, it’s all mind over the body so mental toughness is the key to having a successful climbing experience.

Best season

The best season for Amadablam expedition is the autumn season (from October till the end of November). Spring season also witnesses few climbing teams but due to the presence of blue ice and unstable weather and terrain, the summit chances are very low.

Insurance

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get travel insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get travel insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. Carry proof of your insurance with you on the holiday and leave a copy next to your kin. You must ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

Accommodation

We provide each climber with an individual tent at the base camp during an entire expedition. Each tent will have spacious space, comfortable mattresses, carpeted floors, and more for your comfort. Higher above from base camp, a high-quality extreme weather tent will be provided for every 2 climbers.
We do not emphasize more luxurious things as to unnecessarily increase the cost and human effort but we make sure that you get a good rest.

Meals

We consider delicious and nutritious food to be a key component to the overall success of our expeditions. We charter the food by flight and take the utmost care in quality and hygienic preparation. Our High Altitude Chef will be with us for all meals at Base Camp. During the trek, your meals will be served at the teahouse/lodge you will stay.

Drinking water

Yes, we provide boiled water for drinking purposes on all our treks and climbs. During mealtime, you can ask the boys to fill the hot water for you. We strongly discourage the use of single-use plastic bottles such as mineral water on all our trips. Carrying a hot water bottle is highly recommended.

Climbing gears

Expedition Gear Listed
The gear listed below is required for the expedition. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below and kindly ensure you check and try every piece of equipment. (You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu)

Head
Warm Hat and Bandana/Scarf
1. Baseball cap
2. Thermal Balaclava/Buff
3. Sunglasses with UV protection
4. Ski goggles (Anti-fog and good ventilation)
5. Headlight X 2 with spare batteries
6. Climbing helmet

Upper body
1. Long-sleeved shirts
2. T-Shirts
3. Baselayers
4. Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
5. Waterproof jackets
6. Down Jacket with hood (800m fill)
7. Primaloft or light down jacket
8. Down Suit (Lightweight, comfortable fit and 800m fill)

Lower body
1. Thermal
2. Inner-wears/Baselayers
3. Undergarments
4. Waterproof trousers
5. Trekking trousers
6. Down or Primaloft pants

Feet
1. Warm socks 4-5 pairs/thick socks
2Thin socks 4-5 pairs
3. Trekking shoes (Preferably full to protect/support your ankle)
4. 8000m Mountaineering boots (Lightweight and comfortable size)
5. Camp Shoes
6. Gaiters
7. Down shoe

Hands
1. Gloves
2. Primaloft Mitten
3. Down Mitten

Climbing equipment
1. Backpack 30-35 liters, to carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)
2. Backpack 60-70 liters for climbing
3. A pair of trekking poles
4. Harness
5. Ascender/Jumar, Large handle
6. Descender, Figure 8
7. ATC Guide
8. Carabiners, 4 screw gates and 4 snap gates
9. Prussik cord X 2
10. Slings X 2
11. Ice Axe
12. 12-points steel crampons
13. Inflatable sleeping mattress
14. Sleeping bag X 2 (One for base camp and one for higher camps)

Others
1. Trekking poles
2. Water bottle one 1 liter X 2 with an insulated cover
3. Thermos
4. Multi-tool knife
5. Pee bottle
6. Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
7. Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
8. Padlock
9. Binoculars
10. Sewing kit
11. Duct tape
12. Reading materials, notebooks, and pens

Extra
clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the expedition
Camera with charger or spare batteries

Toiletries and hygiene
1. Quick-drying towel
2. Small face towel
3. Toothbrush & Toothpaste
4. Deodorants, Soap, and Shampoo, Smaller bottle
5. Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen, and lip balm
6. Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
7. Hygiene products
8. Basic first aid kit

Documents
Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities

Flight tickets
1. Credit cards in case of emergencies
2. Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.
Request: For carrying the photocopy of all the documents take along and leave a copy to next of kin.

Schedule for Summit

1st Rotation:
Day 01: Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m) and O/N
Day 02: Return back to base camp
2nd Rotation:
Day 01: Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m) and O/N
Day 02: Climb to Camp 2 (5,900m) and O/N
Day 03: Touch 6,000m and return base camp
Summit Push:
Day 01: Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m) and O/N
Day 02: Climb to Camp 2 (5,900m) and O/N
Day 03: Summit push (6,812m) and return to Camp 2
Day 04: Return to base camp

Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling. Take care to note that your guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails traveling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather, the health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The Expedition guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan. but be prepared to be flexible if required.

Royalty Fee for Expedition

You can send your enquiry via the form below.

Ama Dablam Expedition 6,812m
From $6,000.00
per Person

Trip Facts

  • 30N/31 Days
  • Strenuous
  • 6,812m/20,283ft
  • Spring & Autumn
  • Both way Flights
  • Lodge/Camping
  • 2 Max 12

    Video

    Translate »