Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing offers a distinct experience of climbing a 6000m trekking peak in Nepal that is seldom climbed. Climb one of the least explored and climbed trekking peaks with qualified guides, followed by a better itinerary allowing proper acclimatization and climbing schedule. Standing tall at 6,186m/20,296ft, Kyajo Ri Peak is a semi-technical 6000m peak located in between Thame and Gokyo valley. Less popular and unclimbed as compared to the neighboring peaks, Kyajo Ri provides a thrill of climbing a 6000m peak in a pure expedition style.
Opened to climbing in 2002, Kyajo Ri was climbed for the first time by Franco/ British team. The Commercial Kyajo Ri climbing route is through the southwest ridge. The Southeast Ridge is more challenging while it can also be attempted from the northeast face. In order to maximize the summit chances, our Kyajo Ri peak climbing itinerary includes an acclimatization trek to Gokyo, an ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,357m/17,575ft) and a trek over Renjo la Pass (5,340m/17,520ft). We will leave the main trail from Namche and walk past Dole and Machhermo to Gokyo valley. Crossing the challenging Renjo La High Pass, we will move to Kyajo Ri Base Camp via Thame and Mende.
Kyajo Ri Climbing Route
This climbing route has fewer hazards such as rockfall or avalanche as compared to other routes. The climb involves mixed climbing of rock, snow, and ice on steep pitches in a few sections. Kyajo Ri summit route is often compared with that of Ama Dablam due to its mixed climbing nature. There will be 2 camps above Base Camp before we reach the summit. Camp I will be at 5,350m while Camp II will be at 5,700m altitude. Our actual climb begins after our final preparation at the base camp. From the base camp to Camp 1, it’s a long and non-technical walk on rough terrain. The climb to camp 2 involves scree and boulders although it is a short distance from Camp 1. From camp 2 to the summit of Kyajo Ri it’s 12 pitches of snow and ice with 2 steep pitches of 60% gradient just below the summit.
Trip Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
Day 2: Explore Kathmandu and prepare for the climb [1,350m/4,430ft]
Day 3: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft], 3-4 hours
Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazar [3,440m/11,319ft], 5-6 hours
Day 5: Rest and acclimatization day [3,440 m/11,319ft]
Day 6: Trek to Dole [4,040m/13,255ft], 5-6 hours
Day 7: Trek to Machhermo [4,470m/14,665ft], 3-4 hours
Day 8: Trek to Gokyo [4,800m/15,750ft], 5-6 hours
Day 9: Hike to Gokyo Ri [5,357m/17,575ft] and overnight to Gokyo [4,800m/15,750ft], 4-5 hours
Day 10: Trek to Lungde [4,500m/14,764ft] via Renjo La Pass [5,340m/17,520ft], 8-9 hours
Day 11: Trek to Thame [3,800m/12,468ft], 4-5 hours
Day 12: Trek to Mende [3,740m/12,271ft], 5-6 hours
Day 13: Kyajo Ri Base Camp [4,550m/14,928ft], 4-5 hours
Day 14: Rest and regroup at base camp [4,550m/14,928ft]
Day 15: Proceed to Camp 1 [5,300m/17,389ft]
Day 16: Rest and acclimatization day
Day 17: Proceed to Camp 2 [5,700m/18,701ft], 4-5 hours
Day 18: Climb Kyajo Ri [6,186m/20,296ft] summit and descend to Camp 2, 7-8 hours
Day 19: Contingency day for any delay
Day 20: Descend to Base Camp [4,550m/14,928ft], 4-5 hours
Day 21: Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft], 5-6 hours
Day 22: Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft], 6-7 hours
Day 23: Flight to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
Day 24: In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
Day 25: International Departure
Important Note: Your safety is an imperative concern when traveling with AlpineTrav Treks & Expeditions. Please note that your leader/guide reserves the right to modify or cancel any part of the itinerary if deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep the above itinerary; However, since this adventure travels through remote mountainous areas, we cannot guarantee that it will not be disturbed. Weather and health conditions of group members, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The Climb guide will try to ensure that the trip goes as planned, but be prepared to be flexible if necessary.
