Trip info
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Lhotse Expedition
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54 Days/ 53 Nights
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Strenuous+
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8,516m/27,940ft.
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Spring - May
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2 - Max 8
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Fully tented camping
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All meals are include
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Lhotse Climb the fourth highest mountain in the world
Lhotse Expedition
Maximum Altitude: 8,516m/27,940ft
Total Duration: 57 Days
Coordinates: 27°57′42″ N 86°56′00″ E
Climbing Route: West Face Couloir via South Col
First Ascent: May 19, 1956
Grade: Strenuous +
Group Size: Max 8
Activity: Mountaineering and Climbing
Located south of Mount Everest, Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Lhotse Everest is connected to Everest by South Col. Many climbers prefer the west face as a general Lhotse climbing route. Lhotse is located near Tibet and Lhotse means South Peak in Tibetan dialect. Since Mt Everest and Lhotse are close to each other we follow the same route to reach Mt Everest through Mt South Col. Everest climbers go to the left of the South Col while Lhotse climbers go to the right.
Lhotse Climbing Route
Moving further from base camp, you will reach Camp 1 (5,900m/19,500ft) which exists at the top of Khumbu icefall that is surrounded by crevasses. From Camp 1, you will pass through a lateral moraine to the west ridge that greets us with a close-up view of Lhotse. This place is perfect for Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft). Leaving Camp 2, you will reach near to Lhotse wall by crossing glacier and ice cliffs where you will set Camp 3 (7,300m/23,700ft). Camp 4 (7,900m/25,912ft) is located near South Col. From Camp 4, you will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit.
Profile of Lhotse Expedition:
- Guided by some of the best guides and the Sherpa team.
- 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio on summit day and 1:4 leader to climber ratio
- The ascent of Lobuche peak for acclimatization
- A cohesive team of climbers
- Maximum oxygen and support
- Premier climbing experience on Lhotse
AVAILABILITY
DO YOU HAVE A BIG GROUP? We’re here to help! Contact us to discuss availability and group pricing options.
DETAILED ITINERARY
Meal: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Shanker Kathmandu
Meal: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Shanker Kathmandu
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: Full board service
Accommodation: Fully tented camping
Meal: Full board service
Accommodation: Fully tented camping
Meal: Full board service
Accommodation: Fully tented camping
Meal: Full board service
Accommodation: Fully tented camping
Meal: Full board service
Accommodation: Fully tented camping
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: (B, L, D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/ Lodge
Meal: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Shanker Kathmandu
Meal: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Shanker Kathmandu
Meal: Breakfast
Accommodation: None
INCLUDED | EXCLUDED
Services we offer in a package
- 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio and 1:4 leader to client ratio
- 4 bottled oxygen with use of latest mask and regulator
- Nepalese government royalty fees for Lhotse.
- All expedition organizational requirements
- Lobuche Peak climb for acclimatization
- Service of base camp manager and climbing sirdars
- Satellite communication system at base camp
- Radio set for communication between camps
- Meals at base camp and higher camps during expedition
- Personal tents at BC, high tents, kitchen tents, dining tents, shower tents, toilet tents, store tents, cooking utensils and more for your comfort.
- 6 nights accommodation at 4 Star hotel Kathmandu with breakfast on deluxe room
- Meals (B,L,D) and accommodation during trek upto BC and back to Lukla after expedition
- Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu flights
- Common climbing equipment
- Porterage of climbing equipment up to base camp and back to Lukla after expedition
- Khumbu icefall route fee
- Liaison officer daily wages and fees
- Applicable national park fees and local taxes
Things you need to organize yourself in a package
- International airfare & Nepal entry visa fees
- Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu
- Personal clothing and equipment
- Custom for bringing any expedition goods
- Insurance (Mandatory)
- Summit bonus for your Professional climbing sherpa
- Gratuities for staff at Base Camp
- Personal expenses
AVAILABILITY
Do you have a large group? We’re here to help! Contact us to discuss availability and group pricing options.
INFO RELATED TO THIS TRIP
High altitude expeditions like Lhotse require previous mountaineering experience and climbers are expected to have at least 7000m peak experience before attempting Lhotse. Also, you will spend around 2 months in the mountains, determination, strong mental health and a burning desire to climb mountains are essential prerequisites to join this expedition. Prepare yourself to face high altitude sickness, difficult weather conditions and fatigue. Must have access to climbing equipment, snow and ice walking and a good level of fitness. You should be familiar with rope skills, ice axe arrest and crampon skills, use of ascenders (jumars) and descenders, and how to use your special harness.
The use of oxygen equipment play a major role in high mountain climbing and help to avoid many critical situations and save your life. We provide 4 bottles of Poisk oxygen to each climber using a mask and regulator (top out or summit oxygen system).
The route goes through the Khumbu Icefall. Proceeding from the base camp, we will reach Camp 1 (5,900m) which is located on top of the Khumbu Icefall which is surrounded by canyons. From Camp 1, we pass through a lateral moraine to the welcoming western ridge with a close-up view of Lhotse. This place is suitable for Camp 2 (6,400m). Leaving Camp 2, we will cross glaciers and ice cliffs to the Lhotse Wall where we will set up Camp 3 (7,300m). Camp4 (7,900m) is located near South Col. From Camp 4, we climb steep rock sections to the summit.
We subscribe to weather forecasting services during the peak period of the expedition to provide the best weather forecast for the summit push.
The Lhotse climbing group will be provided with satellite phone for emergency purposes throughout the Lhotse climbing period. Cell phone network is available at the trekking section and base camp but service is not reliable and may depend on weather conditions. Satellite internet is available at the base camp at an additional cost. If you need to make a personal call, you can use a sat phone for $3 per minute. And we also provide radio communication system to communicate between camps.
Rescue insurance is a must before embarking on adventure activities like high altitude travel. We advise all our clients to obtain emergency helicopter evacuation insurance which may be required in the event of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) at high altitudes where other means of transport are not available. Medical expenses, lost luggage, delays and cancellations, death and repatriation are other important factors to include when purchasing your insurance. So it is advisable to carefully review the insurance and its coverages before making a final decision.
Lhotse climbing itinerary is designed keeping every aspect in mind. We included the Lobuche East Climb (6,119m) in our itinerary. Since lobuche climbing is involved, it provides every climber with good acclimatization, practice of climbing techniques and the ability to walk on icefalls. After climbing Lobuche, higher (camps 1, 2 and 3) will be done for the acclimatization.
We provide each climber with an individual box tent at base camp during the entire expedition. Each box tent will have plenty of space, comfortable mattresses, carpet floors and more for your comfort. From Base Camp to above Camps, a high quality extreme weather tent will be provided for every 2 climbers. Similarly, the base camp will have heated dining room, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent etc. for your comfort and more.
We consider delicious and nutritious food to be the key ingredient for the overall success of our campaign. And most of the time we charter food in flight and pay a lot of attention to quality of preparation and cleanliness. From typical Nepalese food to western food, our expedition chef cooks all meals at base camp and camp 2. And for higher camps, we provide a variety of highly nutritious meals. Also during the trek, your meals will be served at the tea house/lodge where you will stay and lunch will be on the way.
The gear listed below is essential for the expedition. We encourage you to get all the tools listed below and please check and try each tool. Can also be bought or rented in Kathmandu.
Head:
- A warm hat
- Baseball cap or other sun hat
- Thermal balaclava
- Buff X 3
- Sunglasses/glacier glasses (high quality, UV-blocking sunglasses with good all-around protection)
- Ski goggles (anti-fog and good ventilation)
- Headlight X 2 with extra batteries
Upper Body:
- Base layer top
- Long sleeve shirt
- T-shirts
- Warm jacket/sweater/pullover
- Primaloft or light down jacket
- Hardshell jacket with hood
- Down jacket with hood (800m fill)
- Down suit (light weight, comfortable fit and 800m fill) (for summit climb only)
Lower Body:
- Below the base layer
- Trekking trousers/pants
- Mid-weight trousers/pants
- Hardshell Gore-Tex pants (non-insulated and waterproof)
- Insulated down pants
Legs:
- Warm socks (4 pairs of thin socks and 4 pairs of thick socks)
- Trekking shoes (with padding to protect/support your knees)
- 8000m mountaineering boots (light weight and comfortable size)
- Camp shoes
- Low shoes
Hands:
- Liner gloves
- Medium weight gloves
- Heavyweight gloves (leather palm)
- Down Mittens / Summit Gloves
Climbing Equipment:
- Climbing helmet
- Harness
- Ascender/Jumar (large handle)
- Descender /Figure 8
- ATC Guide
- Carabiners (4 screw gates and 4 snap gates)
- Prussik Cord X 2
- Slings X 2
- Ice Ax
- 12-point steel crampons
Gear/Personal Equipment:
- Lightweight backpack (45-55 L) for both trekking and climbing
- Inflatable sleeping mattress
- Sleeping bag – 20C rated for base camp
- Sleeping bag – 40C rating for high camps
- Trekking pole
- Water bottle one (1) liter X 2 with insulated cover
- Thermos
- Multi-tool knife
- A bottle of urine
- Laundry bag to keep dirty clothes
- Large plastic bags to keep clothes dry
- Lock
- Binoculars
- Sewing kit
- Duct tape
- Reading materials, notebooks and pens
- Camera with charger or extra battery
- Snack Foods (Energy Gels for Summit Day)
Toilets and hygiene
- Quick drying towels
- Small face towel
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Deodorant, soap and shampoo (small bottle)
- Face and body moisturizer, sunscreen and lip balm
- Hand sanitizer/antiseptic wipes
- Hygiene products
- Basic first aid kit
Important Documents
- Passport with visa and 6 months validity from the end of your trip
- 4 copies of passport size photographs for permission and official formalities
- Travel insurance (please see general information page for more details on this)
- Flight tickets
- Credit cards in case of emergency
- Driving ID or any other ID if you lose your passport.
Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling. Please take care to note that your mountaineering leader, guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather or health condition of a group, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The mountaineering leader, guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.