Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing 6,461m

Grading: 7-8 (Strenuous), Alpine PD+

Climbing the peak of Mera and the island along the Amphu Lapcha pass in a single trip is considered difficult due to the long duration of trekking / climbing in remote and isolated areas going above 5500m. You need to sleep at an altitude of 5000m+ for several days. Mountaineers require a great physical level with fierce determination. Daily walking hours consist of 6-7 hours on average and peak days can be 10-14 hours long.

This grade includes the use of climbing equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons, mountaineering boots, ascenders) on the trip. Previous experience is required and we also offer a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb where your guides will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.

To participate in this trip, excellent physical level and previous experience of high altitude trekking is required. This trip involves a long period of trek/climb. Previous experience in high altitude trekking and climbing smaller peaks is very beneficial when climbing 6000m peaks like Mera and Island peaks.

We have planned a carefully planned itinerary, bypassing Chatra La Pass and taking a wall-pace trek via the long route to Mera Peak. This allows more time for adaptation and maximizes the chances of a summit. After this, we will go to Amfu Lapcha and the island peak for climbing. We allow enough time for acclimatization and contingency in our itinerary and there will also be a climbing course at the base camp where your guide will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.

You should also be prepared both mentally and physically for this journey. A fierce determination, burning desire and teamwork are required.

The best seasons to climb Mera and Island Peak are autumn (October to late November) and spring (April to May). The temperature will drop significantly as you climb higher each day. Nights are cool (between 5C to -5C) and days are sunny and warm (between 10C to 20C). Mornings are usually clear, clouds build in the afternoon and disappear at night. Trekking and climbing is not recommended during monsoons and winters as visibility is poor and limited while the upper reaches and high passes may be covered with snow.

April, May, October and November are the favorite months.

All meals are included in the trek and are offered from 03 to 25 days. We will provide three meals a day (B, L, D) during the trek. Teahouses have a varied menu from traditional Nepali dal bhat, momos (dumplings) to pizza and apple pie. During the trek, breakfast and dinner will be served at the tea house/lodge where you will stay and lunch will be en route.

For the climbing period and the Amphu Lapcha pass section, it will be completely camping style. Your guide and crew will prepare food for you. You are encouraged to bring any comfort and energy foods you may want during the hike.

If you have any special dietary requirements please let us know in advance and we will be sure to send your message to your guide. For a gluten-free diet, we recommend you bring extra food, especially for breakfast, as your options for breakfast will be limited. Meals worth USD 1400-1600 are included in this trip.

For Mera and the island peak, we initially planned a well-paced itinerary on the long route, avoiding Jatrwa La Pass. Our My Peak itinerary follows a long route that allows for proper acclimatization and rest days. After several days of trekking, we reach the base camp of Mera Peak. We have set aside a day for overnight training and refreshments at Mera La and High Camp to maximize the chances of success. Staying overnight at Mera La and High Camp has proven to be important as it allows you to move slowly at your own pace.

From Mera, we go to Amphu Lapcha and finally complete our final goal, the island summit climb. We allow contingency days and reasonable accommodation to ensure the safety and success of our trips.

Yes, we provide boiled water for drinking purpose in all our treks and climbs. During the meal, you can ask the boys to fill the hot water for you. We strongly discourage the use of single-use plastic bottles such as mineral water on all our trips. Carrying a hot water bottle is highly recommended.

Getting travel insurance is mandatory and highly recommended before embarking on any adventure travel in Nepal. We advise all our clients to obtain travel insurance that covers emergency helicopter evacuation that may be required due to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reason at high altitudes where other means of transport are not available. It is advisable to carefully review the insurance and its coverages before making a final decision. Take your proof of insurance with you on holiday and leave a copy with your relative. You should ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

You will only carry your day pack with essentials (water, camera, extra fleece, rain jacket, sunscreen, snacks, valuables, etc.) that you will need while walking. The porter will carry the rest of your gear. We provide 1 porter for every 2 participants.

During the summit push, you will carry only the essentials you will need during the climb. Since we will start our summit push from base camp and return to base camp on the same day, you will leave everything at base camp and carry only essential items. There will also be 1 guide for every 3 climbers, who will be happy to assist you if needed. On the summit days and the Amphu Lapcha Pass, you may need to carry your own climbing gear as you will be using them on most sections and teamwork is appreciated.

Kathmandu:
In Kathmandu, we stay in a 3* hotel. Breakfast will be provided at the hotel, and your accommodation will be based on twin sharing.

On the trek:
Accommodation for trekking (Mt. Everest and Mera region) does not require great logistics as there are many clean and friendly lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, usually just a bed with pillows and blankets.

Climbing Period:
During the climbing period and Amphu Laptcha Pass, your accommodation will be entirely in tented camping. A tent will be arranged between every 2 climbers. If in case of single by default, we will provide single tent at no extra charge.

The gear listed below is recommended for these types of trips. We encourage you to get all the equipment listed below for the trip and please make sure you check out and try each equipment. You can also buy or rent them in Kathmandu as they are available in many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers.

Important Notes:
1. Don’t cut corners on gear quality
2. Thoroughly understand the function of each gear
3. Get your gear in advance
4. Eliminate unnecessary luxuries
5. Seasonal fluctuations will affect gear requirements

Suggestions:
– If you are not willing to invest you can always rent gears
Especially check the size of the shoes before going to the mountains
Wear peak socks when trying on shoes

HEAD TO TOE EQUIPMENT LISTS FOR CLIMBING

1. Clothes
* Thermal base layers – top and bottom
* Heavy base layers
* Trekking pants
* Tight shell pants
* pant below
* T-shirts – short and long sleeve
* Middle layer top
* Insulated jacket
* Hard-shell jacket
* Down jacket/parka

2. Shoes:
* Double insulated mountaineering boots for climbing
* Hiking boots (complete and waterproof)
* A lightweight shoe for camping and around town
* Gaiters
* Flip-flops
* Wool/Synthetic Socks
* Liner socks
* Find the best climbing shoes for summit climbing in Nepal

3. Hardware:
* Liner gloves
* Medium weight gloves
* mittens below

4. Headwear:
* Hat/Fun hat
* Buff
* Balaclava
* Warm fleece/synthetic hat
* Eye wear (full coverage around eyes and nose)
* Ski goggles

5. Climbing gears
* Helmet
* Ice Ax with waist strap
* Mountaineering crampons
* Lightweight mountaineering harness
* Carabiners (2 Screwgate and 2 Snap gate)
* Belay Device (ATC Guide or Figure 8)
* Ascender/Zumar
* Prussik / auxiliary cord

6. Backpacking
* Small pack (35-40 liters)
* Waterproof duffel bag
* Padlocks for duffel bags
* Pack cover

7. Accessories
* Water bottles: 2 bottles of 1 liter each with insulation cover
* Trekking pole
* Headlamp: 200-300 lumens with extra batteries
* Camera
* Power Bank / Solar Charger
* Universal adapter
* Notebook/Diary
* Pocket knife

8. Hygiene and first aid
* Skin care (maximum SPF sunscreen and lip balm)
* Toothbrush, toothpaste, soap, moisturizer
* Hand sanitizer
* Toilet paper and wet wipes
* Personal first aid kit (include personal prescription, altitude medication, * pain relievers, first aid tape, band aids etc.)
* Water treatment

9. Others
* Comfort Foods (Bring snacks and meals you like to munch on)
* Travel to get dressed in Kathmandu
* Sleeping bag (-20 degree sleeping bag)
* Inflatable mattress