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Island Peak Climbing

16 Days

Island Peak locally known as Imja Tse is one of the best peaks for trekking in the Nepalese Himalayas.

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a famous climbing peak beautifully located on the top of the Chukung Glacier between Mt. Lhotse and Ama Dablam. The Island Peak height rises to 6,189m (20,305ft) above the sea level. Island Peak extends the southern ridge of Lhotse Shar, separated by a small col, and appears to look like an island in the sea of ice. Climbing this peak is physically demanding but not challenging, making it perfect for novice climbers.

For climbing Island Peak, you need to have a high level of physical fitness and a moderate level of technical climbing knowledge. During the trip, we will help you develop your mountaineering skills, and by the end of the Island Peak Climb, you will gain enough climbing skills to overcome the Island Peak difficulty. Your trek to Island Peak starts with a 35-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (Gateway of Everest Base Camp). After landing in Lukla, you will take a short trek to Phakding, taking the first steps of the path to Island Peak. You are free to spend the remaining time as you wish. We suggest you visit the local monasteries. And we trek to Namche Bazaar, where you will spend a day acclimatizing. After acclimatizing at Namche, you will hike to Tengboche. After spending a night at Tengboche, you will reach Dingboche and, finally Chhukung. From Chhukung, the trail goes northwards to the high Imja valley and finally to Island Peak’s south ridge base camp. From here, you will see striking views below the Nuptse-Lhotse wall. We will be camping at the Island Peak Base Camp for the night, aiming to summit the peak the next day.

On the summit day, we will wake up early and climb a rocky ridge. You will be following our lead Sherpa. Just above the rock ridge lies a snow headwall that leads to the summit. We will just follow this snow headwall. From the peak, you will get stunning, surreal views of mountains Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Central (8,410m), and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) that form a semi-circle in the north, you can see Ama Dablam (6,812m) and Baruntse (7,129m) in the south, and Makalu (8,475m) in the east. Therefore: On the top of the Island Peak, you will experience the feeling of accomplishment that will last for your entire life. After enjoying the views to our heart’s content, we will descend to the Island Peak Base Camp and retrace our trekking trail to reach Lukla.

Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu (1,350m) and transfer to hotel.
Day 2: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2,600m) 3-4 hours
Day 3: Trek to Namche Bazar (3,440m) from Phakding 5-6 hours
Day 4: Rest and Acclimatization at Namche Bazar
Day 5: Trek to Debuche (3720m), from Namche Bazar 5-6 hours
Day 6: Trek to Dingboche (4,412m), from Debuche 5-6 hours
Day 7: Trek to Chukung (4,730m), from Dingboche 2 hours
Day 8: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m), 3-4 hours
Day 9: Pre Climb Training and Rest day (5,200m) 3-4 hours
Day 10: Summit Island Peak (6,189m) and back to Base Camp
Day 11: Contingency day
Day 12: Trek to Pangboche (3,985m), 6-7 hours
Day 13: Trek to Namche Bazar (3,450m) 6-7 hours
Day 14: Trek to Lukla (2,800m) from Namche Bazar 6-7 hours
Day 15: Fly back to Kathmandu (1,350m) from Lukla
Day 16: International departure

All Inclusive cost
Join our Island Peak Climbing Contact us to set up an itinerary as per your preference.

Group Size Price per Person
 Min 2 – Max 12  US$ 2675

Customization Option

If this itinerary does not suit your need or you want to customize it, tell us about your travel needs, there is no fixed departure date, itinerary. Being a local trekking agency in Nepal we can arrange your trip according to any date and time, please Send Us A Message and we will customize it according to your itinerary.

Essential Information
Island Peak Climb Difficult

Grading: 7-8 (Strenuous), Alpine PD+
Climbing Island peak is considered strenuous due to trek/climb in a remote and isolated area that goes above 5500m. You need to sleep at an elevation of 5000m+ for 2-3 days. Climbers are required to have an excellent physical level with fierce determination. Daily walking hours include 6-7 hrs on average and summit day can be 10-14 hrs long. This grade trip involves usages of climbing equipment (Harness, Ice Axe, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Previous experience is essential and we also provide a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb where.

The Prerequisites for Island Peak

In order to participate in Island Peak climbing, a good physical level is required as previous experience climbing smaller high altitude peaks is very beneficial when climbing a 6000m peak like Island Peak. But our carefully planned itineraries allow even people with no previous experience to join. Because we have given enough time for acclimatization and contingency in this itinerary and there will also be a climbing course at the base camp where your guide will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.

Best Time for Island Peak Climbing

The best seasons for Peak Climb are Autumn (from October till end of November) and Spring (April to May). Temperatures will drop considerably as you ascend higher every day. The nights are cold (between 5C to -5C) and the days are sunny and hot (between 10C to 20C). Mornings are usually clear, March, April, October and November are the favoured months.

Accommodation:
Hotel: 2 Nights, Teahouse/Lodge: 11 Nights, Camping: 2 Nights

On Kathmandu:
In Kathmandu, you will stay at Vajra Hotel in Kathmandu. Situated at the foot, of the Great Swayambhunath Stupa. The most peaceful Vajra Hotel in the Kathmandu valley, the hotel also boasts of close Swayambhunath beautiful jungle where you can relax and enjoy the greenery. Breakfast will be provided in the hotel and your accommodation will be on twin sharing basis.
Teahouse/Lodges:
Trekking in the (Everest area) does not need tremendous logistics in accommodation as there are many clean and friendly Lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, normally just a bed with a pillow and blankets but with a wonderful view from your window. All the teahouses/lodges have a spacious warm dining room-lounge. The rooms are fairly basic. Blankets are generally provided by the teahouse, but we would request you to bring a sleeping bag.
Island Peak base camp:
At Island peak base camp, your accommodation will be on fully tented camping. A tent will be provided between every 2 climbers. If in case of a single by default, then we will provide a single tent without any additional cost.

Meals On Trek

All meals are included on trekking and climbing. We will provide three meals a day (B, L, D) during the trek. The menus in the teahouses are varied, ranging from traditional Nepalese dhal bhat, Momo (Dumpling) to pizza and apple pie. During the trek, Breakfast and Dinner will be served at the teahouse/lodge where you stay and Lunch will be along the way.
Meals On Base Camp:
For Island peak base camp, it will be a fully camping style. Our crew will prepare the food for us at the base camp.

Drinking Water:

We provide boiled water for drinking on all our treks. During meals, you can let the staff fill your bottle with hot water. We strongly discourage the use of single-use plastic bottles such as mineral water on all our trips. Carrying a hot water bottle is highly recommended.

Typical Day On Mountain

Daily wake up calls will be between 6.00 am to 7.00 am while on the trek. The wake-up time and breakfast time will be decided the night before during the briefing time. The time table for each day will entirely depend on your walking duration for that particular day. Tea will be served at your bed and tent as a wake-up call. After a hearty breakfast, we set off on the day’s walk. Before breakfast, you are required to pack your duffel bag as it will be loaded by the porter while you are having your breakfast. After walk, we stop for lunch mid-day. The afternoon’s walk is generally shorter and we usually arrive at our destination in time for afternoon tea.

Daypack for The Trek

You will only carry your day pack carrying the essential items (Water, Cameras, Extra Fleece, Rain jacket, Sunscreen, Snacks, Valuable Items etc.) that you may need during the walk. The porter will carry the rest of your gear. We provide 1 porter for every 2 participants. Similarly, during the climb, there will be 1 support guide for every 3 trekkers, Sherpa guide to client ratio.

Group Size:

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. Our group size is small and we only take up to 12 pax in one group. The size of the group varies, minimum no of persons required to operate the trip is 1 and the maximum is 12 people.

Safety Measures for Climb

Safety is always a priority when traveling with AlpineTrav Treks & Expeditions. Our itineraries to the peak of the Island are carefully crafted to ensure safety and success. On our Island Peak Climbing Itinerary, an oxygen system for emergency purposes and a medical kit are also provided on Island peak trip which will be led by qualified guide and we also have a high staff to customer ratio available on our peak climbing.

Approach for Peak Climbing

Our route to Peak climbing follows a careful approach with ample time for acclimatization, less trodden route, and breathtaking sceneries along the way. With of experience in trekking and peak climbing in the Himalayas, we have carefully tailored each of our itineraries. We put a lot of care into all the details when it comes to executing any of your ventures. Safety is always a priority while traveling with AlpineTrav Treks & Expeditions and we have applied this strictly on our approach.

Baggage and Weight Limit

We request customers to ensure that the duffel bag weighs less than 15 kg. Baggage allowance for domestic airlines in Nepal is only 15 kg (10 kg for duffel bag and 5 kg for backpack) but we can offer additional baggage allowance. Therefore, after arriving in Kathmandu, extra luggage or belongings that are not needed during the trek can be stored at the hotel in Kathmandu.

Travel Insurance

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get travel insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get travel insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. More information: Travel Insurance

Training for High Altitude Treks and Climb

High altitude treks and climbs especially in the Himalayas are challenging and requires you to be in the top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. The more fitter you are, the more enjoyable your trip will be. Training well ahead in advance is recommended and after you have signed up for the trip, we will send you our training booklet which provides essential information on how best to prepare yourself. Whilst on the trip before your actual climb, we will conduct a climbing clinic at the base camp where our guides will teach you the required mountaineering skills.

Passport, Visa and Entry Requirements

Passport: All foreign visitors to Nepal must possess a valid passport with a minimum of 6 months validity beyond their planned departure date. Nepal visa can be obtained on arrival at Kathmandu airport (Tribhuvan International Airport) or you can obtain Nepal visa prior to your arrival through the Nepalese embassies, diplomatic missions and consulates near your location. Nepal Visa is also issued at the entry points if you are entering Nepal by land.

Airport Pickup & Drop:

We will provide airport pickup and drop-off according to your flight schedule. Your airport transfers are organized based on the flight information you provide to us. If there is a change in your flight schedule, please inform us promptly, and we will adjust the transfers accordingly.

Very important information for domestic flights to and from Lukla

In order to avoid air jam at Kathmandu Airport, Lukla flights will be operated from Ramechhap (Manthali) Airport during spring (April 1 to May 31) and autumn (October 1 to November 30). In this case, you need 1 buffer day to arrange all transfers from Manthali airport, i.e. you will have half day visit to Kathmandu and transfer to Manthali by afternoon drive. We suggest you drive to Manthali which is 4 hours away from Kathmandu and spend the night at a hotel in Manthali before taking a flight to Lukla the next morning. After the trek, you can fly to Manthali Airport and return to Kathmandu on the same day.

Details Itinerary

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and at that time you check your name on the play card and then transfer to hotel in Kathmandu.

You will be transferred to Tribhuvan Airport, domestic terminal early in the morning for Kathmandu to Lukla flight. It takes 35 minutes of pleasant flight to take us to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. We will be greeted by aerial views of many snow-clad peaks and mountains. Lukla is the gateway to Everest Khumbu region. After reaching Lukla, you will be introduced to other crew members. We will take breakfast at one of the lodges. Once porters prepare necessary luggage, we will begin our trek for Island Peak. We will pursue the stone pathway downhill. After few hours, we will meet the flat trail. The trail has a spiritual ambience. Mani rocks decorate the path while we can rejoice the striking view of Lukla village. We will finally reach Phakding. After refreshment, you will have short walk to nearby village. Time permitting, we will also visit a local monastery.

Early in the morning after breakfast, we will continue our journey along Dudhkoshi River. The trail stretches through pine forest. After crossing thrilling suspension bridges at several points and passing through we will reach Monjo which is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. We will take sharp descend to the river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get view of Thamserku Mountain. If weather is clear, we can also have first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains.

Today we will go around Namche Bazaar appropriate adaptation with the environment at the height. Namche is a prosperous village situated in a large protected hollow. And the amazing scene visible from here includes superb panorama of the Khumbu peaks and great views of Everest. Then, after having our breakfast, we can also walk towards Thami (3810m) over the amazing Bhote Khola River Valley or visit the national park headquarters to look at the strange displays of Sherpa culture and way of life. (with staff)

Leaving Namche Bazaar, we will walk along the glacial water of Dudh Koshi River. We will be greeted with views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and, Thamserku and Ama Dablam Mountains. Our journey continues through the colorful forest of blooming rhododendron to Sanasa. The region is rich in wildlife like musk deer and different colorful local birds. In Sanasa lies the junction point. One of the path leads us to the Gokyo valley while the other one leads us to Everest Base Camp. We will take sharp climb to Tengboche monastery which is the largest Gompa in the Khumbu region. The journey rewards us with close-up views of many surrounding mountains. We will visit the monastery and walk through forest of birch and rhododendron to Debuche where we will stay overnight.

After breakfast, we will descend to Imja River. The trail takes us uphill to Pangboche (3860m) through the lush forest. We will visit the Pangboche Monastery. The village is also decorated with Chorten and Mani walls. The trail allows us an access to Imja Valley. We will take steep climb to Pheriche and continue further to Lobuche River. The final steepest climb of the day will take us to Dingboche. Agriculture is the chief occupation of locals in Dingboche. We can see fields enclosed by stonewall in Dingboche.

From Dingboche to Chukung, it's only 2 hrs of a walk at a slow pace. We reach Chukung for lunch and will spend the rest of the afternoon preparing for our climb and sorting out the gears.

We will head south towards the main valley in the east. Crossing streams at few points, the trail gets rough with boulders and glaciated rivers. We will cross Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines and arrive at the valley which serves as the Base Camp for Island peak. We will rejoice the striking view of southwestern face of Island peak. Stay overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.

In the morning, there will be a climbing course at the nearby hill, where your guides will teach you the required climbing skills and the basic safety instructions. The course will mainly consist of ascending on the fixed rope using Jumar and descending on the fixed rope using ATC guide or Figure 8. Proper usage of safety cord and Terrian instructions will be given too.

Since the heavy wind blows during the afternoon at the summit, our target will be to reach the summit before noon. Hence, we will wake up much early on this day. We will take a moderate climb for the first part of the climb before reaching the steep hillside. The terrain frequently changes from sandy area to meadow to boulder. From the hill, we will follow the tapered path through a steep rock channel to emerge to the gully. Walking through a ridgeline, we conquer challenges proposed by seracs and crevasses. We will proceed through the snout of the summit glacier with the help of ropes and move through 40- degree snow slopes to reach the summit. The challenge of the climb is rewarded with the gratifying views of Lhotse Mountain, Nuptse Mountain, Makalu, Baruntse and Amadablam Mountains. We will capture the memories on camera and then prepare ourselves for a long descend to the Base Camp.

An extra day scheduled for any delays. Climbing a 6000m peak involves multiple factors such as weather and health condition, etc which can cause a delay or interruption to our itinerary. In such a case, our schedule might get affected. This contingency day will help us to make sure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption.

Leaving the Base Camp, we will follow the easy trail to the lower altitudes. We will retrace the route through the wide valley of Khumbu River and walk past pretty tiny Sherpa settlements of Orsho and Shomare to Pangboche. Pangboche is popular for its oldest monastery in Khumbu region. We can rejoice the views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtaiga and Kongde ridges and Imja Tse River from Pengboche village.

Leaving Pangboche early in the morning, we will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over Dudh Koshi River and move through Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like mountain goats, Thars and local birds. Stay Namche

Our last day of trek following the Dudh Kosi River down to Lukla. It’s only a gradual walk along the Dudhkhosi river after our steep descent from Namche. We’ll have lunch on our way and we make the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. Rest of the day is free and you can relax under the warm sun & reflect on the emotional experiences we had while hiking through these massive mountains that have probably helped us re-discover ourselves in ways least expected. This is our final day on these fantastic mountains.

Take an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. We will be transferred to hotel in a private vehicle in Kathmandu. Take leisure and soothe your aching limbs from long and tiring peak climb.

Finally, the inevitable day of departure arrives. Thanks for joining us on this climb and it's been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. You will be assisted in your last minute preparations. Our representative will take you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Stay tuned and hope to hear from you soon. Have a safe and pleasant journey home.

Cost Inclusion

  • All meals (B,L,D) on trek & climb including hot water and tea/coffee.
  • Twin-sharing accommodation at teahouse/lodges during the trek
  • Twin-sharing accommodation at tents at Island peak base camp
  • Twin-sharing accommodation at Kathmandu Vajra Hotel for 2 nights with breakfast
  • All required permits for trek and climb
  • Climbing guide for Island peak
  • Internal flights (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu with airport taxes)
  • Arrival and departure transfer to airport as per above itinerary
  • Necessary transportation on private basis
  • Porterage of all equipments
  • Comprehensive first aid kit with high-altitude medicine
  • Group climbing gears and use of personal climbing gears on request
  • Summit certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
  • Arranging rescue operations in case of complicated health conditions (funded by travel insurance)

Cost Exclusion

  • International flight airfare.
  • Nepal Entry Visa Fees.
  • Meals in Kathmandu, before and after the journey
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on the trek for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
  • Personal expenses (shopping and cold drinks, alcohol, Wi-Fi, telephone call, battery re-charge fee, personal porters, etc
  • Personal clothing and Trekking & Climbing gear
  • Travel insurance has to cover emergency high-altitude rescue and evacuation along with medical coverage
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs for involved trekking and climbing staff.
  • Additional costs due to delays caused by circumstances outside company control like landslides, weather conditions, itinerary modifications due to safety concerns, illness, change of government policies, strikes, etc
  • All the costs and expenses, which are not listed in "What is included" above will be counted as excludes.

Equipment checklist of peak climbing

The gear listed below is recommended for this kind of trips. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below for the trip and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment. You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops

Clothing and Footwear:
— Long-sleeved shirts
— T-Shirts
— Trousers
— Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
— Waterproof jackets and trousers
— Thermal
— Inner wears
— Under garments
— Warm socks
— Warm Hat, Gloves (Down) and Bandana/Scarf
— Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the trek.
— Trekking shoes (Full)
— Snow Gaiter
— Slippers/Flip flops to wear at camp
— Daypack 30-35 litres (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)

Documents:
— Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
— 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
— Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
— Flight tickets
— Credit cards in case of emergencies
— Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.
[Please carry the photocopy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin]

Others:
— Thermarest or similar sleeping mat
— Headlamps with extra batteries
— Sunglasses with UV protection
— Camera with charger or spare batteries
— A pair of trekking poles
— Water bottle one (1) litre
— Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
— Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
— Padlock
— Binoculars
— Reading materials, notebooks and pens

Toiletries and hygiene:
— Quick drying towel
— Small face towel
— Toothbrush &Toothpaste
— Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
— Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen and lip balm
— Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
— Hygiene products
— Basic first aid kit
— Down Jacket
— Sleeping bag with Liner
— Duffel/Kit Bag

Personal climbing gears:
— Plastic mountaineering boots
— Mountaineering/Climbing Harness
— Helmet
— Ice Axe
— Crampons
— Ascender/Jumar
— Descender/ 8 figure (Rappelling device)
— Screw gate Karabiners (Lock 2/Unlock 2)
— Prusik loop
Which boot is best for peak climbing in Nepal?
Please: Click here link and check

Trip Map

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Island Peak Climbing
From $2,675.00
/ per person

Trip Facts

  • 15 nights, 16 days
  • Strenuous
  • 6,189m/20,305ft
  • Spring & Autumn
  • Base Camp
  • Base Camp
  • Lodges & Camping
  • Min 2 - Max 12

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