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Pachermo Peak Climbing (6273m.) - 17 Days


Pachermo Peak Climbing

Pharchamo is a Peak that fascinates every trekker passing through.
Pharchamo peak climbing (6273m) lies south of the Tashi Lapcha and, when seen from the past, the mountain is really attractive. It is a straightforward snow peak first climbed in 1955 along a well-defined north-by-northwest ridge rising from a relatively flat but crevassed, a glacier that is still the main route to the summit. The Rolwaling valley is the main access to Pharchamo. You climb northeast of the icefall of Tashi Lapcha, setting up a high camp just below rock walls at 5,500m. From this camp you gain the ridge of Pharchamo, following it without much difficulty – but watching for crevasses which can cause problems near the summit. The approach trek to Pharchamo in the Rolwaling Himal leads through a region that has remained untouched by western civilization and groups of trekkers are not often seen, even in the peak trekking seasons. The scenery is outstanding, the route leads along beautiful river valleys before emerging in high alpine country and there are excellent views of Gaurisankar, Melungtse, and many other great peaks. Crossing the Tashi Lapcha pass is a really adventurous job.
The peak, which lies due south of the Tesi Lapcha, is unnamed on the Schneider Rolwaling Himal map but is given a spot height of 6273 meters. Seen from the pass the mountain is an attractive but straightforward snow peak with a well-defined north by a northwest ridge rising from the relatively flat, crevassed glacier astride the Tesi Lapcha.

The Best Time for Peak climbing

The best time for Trekking and Peak Climbing is during the autumn and spring seasons. These seasons have very ideal climate and weather for peak climbing. During the months of September to November and March to May, the weather is mostly clear with no rainfall destroying your trekking and climbing routes. Enjoying this period Also, with the clear weather, you get the best views and the best and clear view.

Why Peak climbing with us?

At AlpineTrav Treks, we always believe in ‘Safety first and Service paramount’. The success of any climb depends largely on the carefully planned itinerary and best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed to maintaining the climb safe and successful with the quality of service. Our emphasis is always on maintaining the group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other.
So we are dedicated to providing the highest professionalism throughout the climb by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed.

We Offer Quality Gears

Do not compromise on the quality of gears. Out of many controllable and uncontrollable factors that contribute to the successful climb, having quality gears is all in your control. Quality gear will perform better and provide great comfort in the mountains. Make sure you have all the gears required for the climb including all accessories and a personal first aid kit.
If you plan to continue climbing in the future, then it may be a good decision to invest in quality gear. But if this is your first and last time, then perhaps renting gears will save you a fortune. Good quality gears will also serve you long and provide great comfort. You should be prepared to experience climatic extremes, and having the right gear can make the experience a lot more comfortable.

Peak Climbing Itinerary: A. via Lukla, Namche Bazaar
(Cost USD ($) 2839 per person) Min, Group size -2

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu airport and transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Preparation and Official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2860 m). Trek to Phakding (2652 m). O/N at Lodge.
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar, (3440 m). 6 hours. O/N at Lodge.
Day 05: Namche Bazar Rest for Acclimatization.
Day 06: Trek to Thame (3800 m). 5 hours. O/N stay Lodge.
Day 07: Trek to Thengpo (3990 m). 6 hours. Tented Camp.
Day 08: Trek to Trek begins Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 09: Trek to Cave Camp and preparation.
Day 10: Make it to High Camp.
Day 11: Pharchamo Peak (6,273 m). summit, back to Cave camp
Day 12: Return Trek to Thame. O/N at Lodge.
Day 13: Trek to Phakding. O/N at Lodge.
Day 14: Trek to Lukla overnight at Lodge
Day 15: Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 16: Extra day in Kathmandu.
Day 17: Departure to your own destination.

Peak Climbing Itinerary: B. via Tsho Rolpa Lake
(Cost USD ($) 3610 per person) Min, Group size -2

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu airport and transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Preparation and Official briefing.
Day 03: Drive to Gonger (1440 m), 7-8 hours.
Day 04: Trek to Simigaun (2019 m), 4-5 hours.
Day 05: Trek to Dugang (2800 m), 5 hours.
Day 06: Trek to Beding (3693 m), 6 hours.
Day 07: Rest day at Beding for acclimatization
Day 08: Trek to Na Gaun, (4183 m), 3-4 hours.
Day 09: Trek to Tsho Rolpa Lake Glacier Camp (4735 m), 7 hours.
Day 10: Cross Tashi Lapcha Pass 5,793 m, to Pharchamo Base Camp (5,600 m), 7 hours.
Day 11: Exploration day. Make it to High Camp
Day 12: Climb Parchamo Peak (6,273 m). Return to Base Camp
Day 13: Trek to Ngole (5,110 m), 5 hours.
Day 14: Trek to Thame (3,820 m), hours.
Day 15: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440 m), 4-5 hours.
Day 16: Trek to Lukla (2860 m), 6-7 hours
Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu then transfers to Hotel.
Day 18: Extra day in Kathmandu.
Day 19: Departure to your own destination.


Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with AlpineTrav Treks & Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails traveling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Whether or not the health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The Trekking and Climbing guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Cost Includes: All Service for Round Trip

1. Airport pick up and drop.
2. 3-star hotel in Kathmandu (Bed & breakfast).
3. Domestic flight as in the itinerary.
4. All ground transportation as in the itinerary.
5. Full board Lodge & camping service for the whole trekking period.
6. Required ropes with accessories to fix rope.
7. Guide required climbing Sherpa and camping staff.
8. Cook and kitchen staff.
9. Highly experienced trekking porters.
10. All staff and porters insurance.
11. National park fee and climbing permit.
12. Emergency rescue and evacuation arrangements.
13. Exclusive Medical Kit Bag.
14. Government taxes.
15. Farewell dinner.

Cost Exclude

1. Airfare of your international flight.
2. Nepal visa fee ($25 for 15 days), $40 for 30 days period.
3. Any cost due to a change in the itinerary because of natural calamities, disturbances like personal sickness, etc.
4. Cost of any extra services if you use those which are not mentioned in the packages.
5. In case of emergency, the cost of a helicopter rescue/evacuation.
6. Your travel insurance.
7. All kinds of beverages.
8. Personal trekking gears.
9. Staff tips.

Equipment Listed (for Expedition) we offer!

The gear listed below is required for the expedition. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below and kindly ensure you check and try every piece of equipment.
You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.

A. Head

*Warm Hat and Bandana/Scarf
1. Baseball cap
2. Thermal Balaclava / Buff
3. Sunglasses with UV protection
4. Ski goggles (Anti-fog and good ventilation)
5. Headlight X 2 with spare batteries
6. Climbing helmet

B. Upper body

1. Long-sleeved shirts
2. T-Shirts
3. Baselayers
4. Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
5. Waterproof jackets
6. Down Jacket with hood (800m fill)
7. Primaloft or light down jacket
8. Down Suit; Lightweight, comfortable fit and 800m fill)

C. Lower body

1. Thermal
2. Inner-wears / Baselayers
3. Undergarments
4. Waterproof trousers
5. Trekking trousers
6. Down or Primaloft pants

D. Feet

1. Warm socks (4-5 pairs thin socks/4-5 pairs thick socks)
2. Trekking shoes (Preferably full to protect/support your ankle)
3. 8000m Mountaineering boots (Lightweight and comfortable size)
4. Camp Shoes
5. Gaiters
6. Down shoe

E. Hands

1. Gloves
2. Primaloft Mitten
3. Down Mitten

F. Climbing equipment

1. Backpack 30-35 liters (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)
2. Backpack 60-70 liters for climbing
3. A pair of trekking poles
4. Harness
5. Ascender/Jumar (Large handle)
6. Descender /Figure 8
7. ATC Guide
8. Carabiners (4 screw gates and 4 snap gates)
9. Prussik cord X 2
10. Slings X 2
11. Ice Axe
12. 12-points steel crampons
13. Inflatable sleeping mattress
14. Sleeping bag X 2 (One for base camp and one for higher camps)

A. Others

1. Trekking poles
2. Water bottle one (1) liter X 2 with an insulated cover
3. Thermos
4. Multi-tool knife
5. Pee bottle
6. Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
7. Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
8. Padlock
9. Binoculars
10. Sewing kit
11. Duct tape
12. Reading materials, notebooks, and pens
13. Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the expedition.
14. Camera with charger or spare batteries

B. Toiletries and hygiene

1. Quick-drying towel
2. Small face towel
3. Toothbrush & Toothpaste
4. Deodorants, Soap, and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
5. Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen, and lip balm
6. Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
7. Hygiene products
8. Basic first aid kit

C. Documents

1. Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
2. 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
3. Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
4. Flight tickets
5. Credit cards in case of emergencies
6. Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.

[Request: For Mountain Carry to the photocopy of all the documents take along and leave a copy to next of kin]

The difficulty

A high level of fitness and previous experience of at least moderate technical climb need to be. Climbers should expect multiple days of climbing at high altitudes in extreme conditions.
And any part of the route consists of a pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. It requires getting the technical climbing experience of conquering this mountain sharply.


Climbers are required to have a good climbing resume and moderate skills on a technical climb. You need to have solid rock-climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. Since you will be spending most of the time in extreme conditions a previous experience of climbing a 6000m peak is required. Climbers are required to be in excellent fitness and must have the ability to perform at a high level for a longer duration at high altitudes.
A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential prerequisites for joining this category expedition. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow, rock, and ice carrying your pack on. You should be familiar with Rope skills, ice ax arrest, and crampon skills, the use of ascenders (Jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness.
Training well ahead in advance, at least 6 months prior to the expedition start date is recommended. Doing CrossFit, uphill walking, carrying a heavy backpack on exposed terrain and other physical activities will be greatly beneficial to improve your performance. Consult with your doctor about your physical level and have a balanced program of training, diet, and rest.


We consider delicious and nutritious food to be a key component to the overall success of our expeditions. Take the utmost care in quality and hygienic preparation. We are of utmost care in quality and hygienic preparation.
Our High Altitude Chef will be with us for all meals at Base Camp. During the trek, your meals will be served at the teahouse/lodge you will stay at. And in Kathmandu, only breakfast will be provided to give you the maximum flexibility in deciding where what and with whom to eat for lunch and dinner.
If you have any special dietary requirements please let us know in advance and we will be sure to cater to your needs.


We provide each climber with an individual tent at the base camp during an entire expedition. Each tent will have spacious space, comfortable mattresses, carpeted floors, and more for your comfort. Higher above from base camp, a high-quality extreme weather tent will be provided for every 2 climbers. It’s also a lot warmer and safer when you can keep an eye on each other.
We do not emphasize more on luxurious things as to unnecessarily increase the cost and human effort but we make sure.

Climbing Guides

Our climbing guide crews are critical to the success of the climbs that you do with us. We are professionally trained climbing guides & guides who are just not hikers & climbers on the mountains but have been trained to perform this task with a lot of common sense and guile.


It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get rescue insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get the insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. Carry proof of your insurance with you on the holiday and leave a copy next to your kin. You must ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

Travel & Rescue Insurance


Our Expedition group will be equipped with a satellite phone for emergency purposes throughout the expedition duration. The cell phone network is available during the trekking section and at base camp, the service is not reliable and may fluctuate depending on weather conditions. In case you need to make a personal call, you can use the satellite phone for $3 per minute.


The best season for the Peak an expedition is the autumn season (from October till the end of November). Spring season also witnesses few climbing teams but due to the presence of blue ice and unstable weather and terrain, the summit chances are very low.

Other Information

Other information such as (Insurance, Arrival Instructions, Visa and Passport, etc. required for the trip will be provided after you have signed up for the expedition. Please feel free to get in touch with us if you require more information about the trip.

You can send your enquiry via the form below.

Pachermo Peak Climbing (6273m.)
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