Tilicho Peak Expedition 7134m

Trip Highlights

• Moderately challenging technically and physically
• Relatively low objective hazard
• Incredibly beautiful location by Tilicho Lake
• Culture of remote traditional villages similar to Tibet

Tilicho Peak Expedition 2023 Overview

Maximum Altitude: : 7,134m (23,406ft)
Total Duration: 34 days (typically)
Coordinates: 28°41′04″ N 83°48′16″ E
First Ascent: Emanuel Schmutz (French), 1979
Grade: Strenuous
Activity: Tilicho Peak Expedition
Climbing duration: 15 days (typically)

Tilicho Peak expedition (7134m/23,406 ft) is the most impressive 7000 m expedition in the Annapurna region. Located 210 km west of Kathmandu, this charming place will capture your attention and leave you speechless. The peak was first climbed in 1978 by Mr. Emmanuel Schmutz of the French expedition. Mr. Schmutz climbed the peak from the North West Shoulder, which is now a normal climbing route by the Government of Nepal and the Department of Tourism. Tilicho Peak is the highest point of the Great Barrier which connects Khangsar Kang (7458m) and Nilgiri North (7061m). Tilicho Peak is a mountain located in the Nepalese Himalayas near Annapurna. In 1950, a team led by Maurice Herzog in search of Annapurna 1 searched for the summit.

The Tilicho (7134m/23,406ft) peak climbing expedition is one of the most challenging 7000m climbs. We follow the classic trekking route from Annapurna circuit to Manang village and then proceed towards Tilicho lake via Khangsar and Besi Khola to reach the mountain, after base camp II or III high camps will be established for summit attack on Tilicho peak. The climb from Base Camp to Camp I (5800m/19,029 ft) is fairly straightforward. Camp I is located on a shelf below the northwest shoulder above a 45 degree mixed rock and ice terrain. Camp II (6100m/20,013ft) is located on the shoulder and is accessed via a 50deg and 500m long snow field. The shoulder itself is also a 50deg 700m snowfield with less objective exposure and much less exposure due to the greater width of the shoulder. Climbing Tilicho Peak requires fixed ropes when you reach Camp II at 6300m/20,669ft.

The standard caravan route to the advanced base camp of Tilicho Peak passes through the Marsyangdi Valley to Besishahr. The approach takes about 8 days and offers excellent compatibility. An option to return to Kathmandu after climbing Tilicho Peak is to hike for 4 days via Thorong La Pass (5416m/17769ft), then fly from Jomsom to Pokhara and then return to Kathmandu. Another option is to go through the difficult Mesokanto Pass (5300m). And then fly from Jomsom to Pokhara. Climbers can see panoramic views of the Annapurna Massif, Dhaulagiri, Tilicho Lake, the Tibetan Plateau and the Kaligandaki Valley, the world’s deepest valley.

The usual climbing seasons in Nepal are March-May (spring) and October-November (autumn). However, summer is the best time to visit Tilicho Lake as the weather is very hot and the trail is easy. The base camp is established around an altitude of 4800m/15,748ft. Which is located at the foot of Tilicho peak. The peak towers 2300 meters above the shores of Tilicho Lake. It is the primary water source for the campaign.

From base camp you climb to Camp I (5800m/19,028ft), a 45deg mixed rock and ice section extending to 600m/1,968ft situated on a shelf below the northwest shoulder. The next day you head up the 50deg/650m snowfield to Camp II (6200m/20,341ft) located on the shoulder. Your third day will be a true peak push. Climbing Sherpa guide team and climbers climb to Camp I, Camp II and push the 50-60 degree 750-850m snow field along the northwest shoulder for the summit.

Tentative Accolimation Scheduled
⇒ BC to Camp (I) – Climbing route is straight steep 70º / 90º
⇒ Camp (I) to Camp (II) – Climbing route is strait steep 90º with ice vertical.
⇒ Camp (II) to Camp (III) – Climbing route is steep to get summit 40º/ 60º or Max. 70º