Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam is a technical mountain in the Khumbu region with mixed terrain (rock/snow/snow) exposed rock climbing, requiring a high level of fitness and previous experience of at least moderate technical climbing. Since most of the section of Ama dablam is a fixed rope climb, you need to be very comfortable jumping and belaying the fixed ropes. As the route between Camp 1 and Camp 3 involves technical climbing with some near-vertical ice and rock, climbers should expect several days of climbing at high altitudes in extreme conditions. The route also includes an ice pyramid with steep walls and sharp, exposed rocks. Experience technical climbing on this sharply featured mountain.

Moderate skills in initiation and technical climbing are required. You need to have solid rock climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. Since you will be spending most of your time in extreme conditions, previous experience climbing a 6000m peak is essential. Mountaineers need to be at an excellent fitness level and have the ability to perform at a high level for long periods at high altitudes. Determination and a burning desire to climb mountains are essential prerequisites for joining this category of expedition. Carrying your pack requires familiarity with walking on snow, rocks and ice. You should be familiar with rope skills, ice ax arrest and crampon skills, use of ascenders (jumars) and descenders, and how to use your special harness.

The best season for Ama Dblum expedition is autumn (October to late November). Spring season also sees some mountaineering teams but due to the presence of blue ice and unstable weather and terrain, the chances of reaching the summit are very low.

Satellite phones will be provided Ama Dablam Campaign emergency purposes throughout the campaign period. Cell phone network is available in trekking section and base camp, service is not reliable and may depend on weather conditions. If you need to make a personal call, you can use a sat phone for $3 per minute.

Rescue insurance is a must before embarking on adventure activities like high altitude travel. We advise all our clients to obtain emergency helicopter evacuation insurance which may be required in the event of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) at high altitudes where other means of transport are not available. Medical expenses, lost luggage, delays and cancellations, death and repatriation are other important factors to include when purchasing your insurance. So it is advisable to carefully review the insurance and its coverages before making a final decision.

We will follow the standard route through the southwest ridge to the summit. This route is the safest and free from the risk of avalanches. We need to cross 40-45 degree slopes. A careful strategy is important for a successful climb. We will spend a few days at Amadablam base camp to create a proper environment. A circumnavigation of the higher camps is effective before the final attempt at the summit. Therefore, we will practice climbing to Camp 2 (5900m) and descending to the lower camp to acclimatize our bodies well to the high altitude. In the first circumnavigation, we will return to our base camp with a small load at Camp 1 (5700m). On our next rotation, we will sleep at Camp 1 and early the next morning, we will hike to Camp 2. On the final rotation, those who feel comfortable will sleep at Camp 2 while other climbers descend to the lower camp. Before the final attempt for the summit.

We provide each climber with a personal tent at the base camp during the entire expedition. Each tent will have plenty of space, comfortable mattresses, carpeted floors and more for your comfort. From the base camp, a high quality extreme weather tent will be provided for every 2 climbers. However, we don’t put too much emphasis on luxuries to unnecessarily increase cost and human effort but we make sure that you get good comfort.

We consider delicious and nutritious food to be a key ingredient in the overall success of our campaign. We charter food by flight and take utmost care in quality and hygienic preparation. Our high altitude chef will be with us for all meals at base camp. During the trek, your meals will be served at the teahouse/lodge where you will stay. And lunch of the day will be provided en route.

The gear listed below is essential for the expedition. We encourage you to get all the tools listed below and please check and try each tool. Can also be bought or rented in Kathmandu.

Head:

• A warm hat
• Baseball cap or other sun hat
• Thermal balaclava
• Buff X 3
• Sunglasses/glacier glasses (high quality, UV-blocking sunglasses with good all-around protection)
• Ski goggles (anti-fog and good ventilation)
• Headlight X 2 with extra batteries

Upper Body:

• Base layer top
• Long sleeve shirt
• T-shirts
• Warm jacket/sweater/pullover
• Primaloft or light down jacket
• Hardshell jacket with hood
• Down jacket with hood (800m fill)
• Down suit (light weight, comfortable fit and 800m fill) (for summit climb only)

Lower Body:

• Below the base layer
• Trekking trousers/pants
• Mid-weight trousers/pants
• Hardshell Gore-Tex pants (non-insulated and waterproof)
• Insulated down pants

Legs:

• Warm socks (4 pairs of thin socks and 4 pairs of thick socks)
• Trekking shoes (with padding to protect/support your knees)
• 8000m mountaineering boots (light weight and comfortable size)
• Camp shoes
• Low shoes

Hands:

• Liner gloves
• Medium weight gloves
• Heavyweight gloves (leather palm)
• Down Mittens / Summit Gloves

Climbing Equipment:

• Climbing helmet
• Harness
• Ascender/Jumar (large handle)
• Descender /Figure 8
• ATC Guide
• Carabiners (4 screw gates and 4 snap gates)
• Prussik Cord X 2
• Slings X 2
• Ice Ax
• 12-point steel crampons

Gear/Personal Equipment:

• Lightweight backpack (45-55 L) for both trekking and climbing
• Inflatable sleeping mattress
• Sleeping bag – 20C rated for base camp
• Sleeping bag – 40C rating for high camps
• Trekking pole
• Water bottle one (1) liter X 2 with insulated cover
• Thermos
• Multi-tool knife
• A bottle of urine
• Laundry bag to keep dirty clothes
• Large plastic bags to keep clothes dry
• Lock
• Binoculars
• Sewing kit
• Duct tape
• Reading materials, notebooks and pens
• Camera with charger or extra battery
• Snack Foods (Energy Gels for Summit Day)

Toilets and hygiene

• Quick drying towels
• Small face towel
• Toothbrush and toothpaste
• Deodorant, soap and shampoo (small bottle)
• Face and body moisturizer, sunscreen and lip balm
• Hand sanitizer/antiseptic wipes
• Hygiene products
• Basic first aid kit

Important Documents

• Passport with visa and 6 months validity from the end of your trip
• 4 copies of passport size photographs for permission and official formalities
• Travel insurance (please see general information page for more details on this)
• Flight tickets
• Credit cards in case of emergency
• Driving ID or any other ID if you lose your passport.